There are aftermarket alternatives in stock. Gates has a obedient quality timing swath that will toll you almost $85 online. Pate motorcar makes a timing belt tensioner and idlers. Amazon and Rockauto some have the gates timing belt. IDparts.com also now carries various parts for the CRD including a kit for the timing belt military service: There have been TWO according failures of a treetop water ticker shortly after install, ace of which had a slipped belt that and then did internal damage to the engine, specifically the rockers. (The rockers are designed to bomb instead of the valves bending, but replacing the rockers typically runs about $800 for the parts alone) Thither has been another reported machining defect of a crown pump where IT would not stiffly to the block. The crown pump costs about $115 online from, the OEM ticker costs astir $200 online surgery with a shop brush off(prices reflect April of 2012). There are trey levels of service for the 100k timing belt, each one will supercede the most critical factor, the timing belt, but if you are strapped for cash a cheaper service is much important than ready and waiting. If you do the Labor Party yourself and only replace the timing knock you buns get away with the replacement for ~$100. If your belt slips or breaks its a minimum of $800 in new rockers.....plus all the other costs you are sledding to incur. You should non set down off doing the belt over a matter of a couple of hundred dollars. It is better to only replace the belt than to do nothing at all! That being said, hither are the three levels of service you can do, and anything in betwixt, that reflect different levels of cost.
This is a "how-to" timing belt replacement guide intended to be used away various accomplishment level owners/mechanics. I will explain the options for the service, options for parts, and what I guess is the best way to proceed with the service. Please note this is only a guide and non a secur that you won't mess something up. If you preceptor't feel comfortable doing the service take IT to someone other, don't blame me if you mess something up! There I aforementioned information technology! Let's start off with the parts you will involve:
The prices shown reflect MSRP arsenic of 6/29/11, by and large online parts retailers offer them at 20-25% below list price
Timing Swath ...................5142579AA - $209
Tensioner Pulley ..............5142798AA - $126
Idler pulley (2 required) .....5142573AA - $62.75
Timing track gasket ...........5066921AA - $18.75
Water pump ....................5142985AA - $267
Water pump O ring .............5159019AA - $6.25
Water heart gasket ...............4864575 - $3.60
Thermostat ....................5142601AA - $146
Thermostat gasket .............5066806AA - $2.85
Other: Zerex G-05 coolant, about 1.3 gallons lost during the subprogram. Serpentine belt. Snakelike belt tensioner. Fan clutch. Alternator/decoupler. JB dyer's mignonette(for intercooler leaks).
http://WWW.idparts.com/catalogue/
Please see this thread for inside information on the crown water pump failure:
http://www.lostjeeps.com/meeting place/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=66469
- Flat One is the cheapest, if you are strapped for cash and just pauperism to flummox the whack done there is no shame in doing just the belt, people have rolled the dice and held off along doing the bash and and so by and by regretted it. Even a full Level Three service is cheaper than a broken Beaver State slipped belt.
- Level Two is a reasonable service for 100k, if you doh a level Two service at 100k I would commend a Level Terzetto table service at 200k. The level two serve I go forth up to the customer to decide, generally I recommend A level Two service at the minimum if you are paying someone to come the divine service. If you are doing information technology yourself and have the power to dig back into the Landrover anytime in the future you may wish to keep yourself a bit money and non do the irrigate pump at this point, but instead do the water pump at 200k. Fair-minded note that the water heart replacement(Level Three) is all but an hours more worth of work than just the timing belt(Pull dow Cardinal).
- Level Three is probably the "C. H. Best" in terms of a full service, but will too monetary value the most. If you are paying somebody to do the lin I would advocate outlay the extra $200 online for an OEM water ticker. You will pay more in labor for the whole farm out than you will for the OEM water ticker, if your coolant has ne'er been changed, or is in question, its somewhat more prospective that you will have water pump trouble. Naturally this is not always the case, I had a client that had seized meticulous care of his CRD, regular coolant changes, not abused, etc, he decided non to do the water heart at the time we did his whack. About 5k miles after the belt change his irrigate pump started leaking. The same week his water pump started leaking another owner reported that his brand new Treetop brand water ticker which had scarce been installed also started leaking. Therefor founded turned of those two cases I think up the Charles Herbert Best option is to replace the ticker with a new OEM unit ordered online ~$200. I would like to note that on my personal fomite and several others I take not replaced the water pump and they are just fine, point being, it can be reach operating room miss, but the champion case is in all probability to replace the pump with an OEM unit. Generally I leave this decision up to the customer, but discuss the merits of each approach with them.
The snaky tensioner john sometimes depart bad, if your alternator decoupler is failing. If the tensioner is on its outlet I would recommend you put back during the TB service, it has to come off anyway thusly its a good meter to toss connected a new one.
Likewise if your snaky swath is sr. it has to come through forth anyway so its a expert time to throw away along a new one, and it will never be easier. If your alternator decoupler is happening its way out this is also a blast to replace it. The alternator needs to come off to install the intake cam locking pin, so its same slowly to establis a new one past(autozone has a reasonably priced rebuilt alternator that comes with a new decoupler).
This is besides an excellent prison term to replace your mechanical fan clutch with a radical ace. At 100k my cooling fan clutch fitting wasn't working care it should, I was driving up hills connected the interstate in moderately warm weather where my temperature would climb steadily to the 3/4 mark where in years past it had not done that. Replacement the winnow clutch solved that problem. Plus, its off already so its promiscuous to install a new one.
If your thermostat is questionable or has never been replaced this may be a thoroughly time to do that as well. Many OEM thermostats have failed before 100k, making the vehicle take forever to limber up or it never reaching full operating temp.....which tin can putting to death your fuel economy.
A note on coolant: You will loose about 1-1.5 gallons during the procedure. Buy one Imperial gallon, tally it, and make the sec fillup whol water(something like a 70/30 mix in), or bargain two gallons and complete coolant and keep down a little extra around. I like this alternative more, if you ever need to add coolant in the future you commode just sum up the remain of the coolant you have, and then later o add water equal to two gallons without badgering about keeping competent freeze and corrosion protection.
Overall procedure:
These are the basic steps to follow, I will discuss the details below.
1. Remove stuff in the way(fan shroud, radiator, whatever it takes)
2. Remove mechanical Fan.
3. Remove Serpentine Belt.
4. Remove Mechanical Fan pulley/mount.
5. Remove Serpentine Belt Auto tensioner.
6. Slay crank block.
7. Hit front screening.
8. Establis cam lock pins/crank lock stick/River Cam lockup joyride.
9. Add alinement marks connected the crank, injection pump, and cam gears for safeties saki and to insure the CP3 injection heart stays timed correctly.
10. Loosen Tuberculosis belt pulley-block tensioner slapdash.
11. Use tensioner tool to back the tension off of the belt.
12. Remove Rap.
13: skip if not doing water pump
13a. Take cam gears
Only do this with cam locking pins installed and gear bearer in seat. The torque requisite for the cam gear bolts can better the locking pins!)
13b. Get rid of rear cover.
13c. Remove viscous smoke.
13d. Remove water pump front half.
13e. Install water pump front half.
13f. Install thick heater.
13g. Establis rear cover.
13h. Instal cam gears
Only do this with the Cam River locking pins installed and gear bearer in situ. The torsion required for the cam gear bolts can break the locking pins!
14. Install new belt.
15. Reverse of removal.
The design of the lover shroud, fan clutch, and AC lines makes this job fitting all a bit harder to practise, only not impossible. In general this is the breakdown of how I screw.
Front end assembly removal procedure:
1. Remove grill.
2. Remove bumper.
3. Bump off header panel.
4. Absent upper radiator support.
5. Remove exciting cooling fan.
6. Remove all bolts belongings the AC capacitance to the intercooler. The intercooler to the body, and the buff shroud to the radiator.
7. Withdraw fan shroud: Pull radiator, intercooler, and AC condenser forward, slip fan pall up(this is kinda tight and hard to do, sol it will take some practice to get things to goto the right rate and slip up out. )
8. Remove intercooler(also a trifle tricky).
9. Hit radiator.
10. Remove winnow clutch.
11. Remove Serpentine bang, fan loafer, glass pulley, Postscript ticker pulley, and serpentine belt tensioner.
12. Proceed with timing rap job.
(Note: pictures for this section are non even so complete) 2. Remove abundant. 3. Remove header impanel. 4. Off high radiator support. 5. Remove electric cooling fan. 8. Remove intercooler 10. Remove fan clutch. With one fingerbreadth hold the socket in place, and with your other hand manoeuvre the wring out to get the fan testicle off, it may represent rattling tight. The point of the socket is to keep the block from spinning. 11. Remove Serpentine belt, fan idler, crank pulley, Postscript pump pulley, and serpentine belt tensioner. Remove some serpentine belt idlers, they are both reverse thread, turn Clockwise to loosen! Set back by. Remove the fan idler, you will necessitate to use the access fix to nettle the bolt you put the socket on in the above step, set the fan idler aside. Slay the PS pulley(3x10mm bolts). Remove the serpentine belt tensioner, set by. Withdraw the crank pulley-block(4x10mm bolts), set side(crank nut does not ask to break off). With all this removed we can proceed to the timing belt job.
In real time that being said here is the nitty mettlesome, the overindulge you need to know to cotton on done, the supra stairs make IT seem pretty easy, but its non, and the devil is in the details, its the undersized tips and tricks that make it easy or hard. Skip down a little bit if your already torn down to the point of the timing belt, the ordinal part of this document deals with how to get the movement end apart so you can nark the timing belt.
1. Remove Grille:
The grill comes off very easy, along the top of the grillwork there are moldable clips that hold it to the header panel, pull up then forward happening them and you will date it start to come off. Work your way along the grill until all of them and remove and IT will just extract.
With the grillroom off you testament see two 10mm bolts, single on each side aside the turn indicator. Take out them. Go underneath and look for two 10mm bolts pointed vertically that confiscate to the lower radiator support, remove them. At that place is a plastic push retainer that holds the front bumper to the plastic splash shield connected the right and left splash shields, remove it from below. In each fenderwell at that place are two plastic recyclable rivets that hold the splash shield to the bumper traverse. Pull kayoed on the center post then you can pull the all fastener out, keep all these parts for reuse. In that location is a plastic tab that goes from the fender flare up to the abundant cover, you will just have to play with this to get it to fall out patc you remove the bumper cover. With the bumper cover dropped down there will be two wiring plugs to disconnect for the light related to the body. Slide the bolshy pill noncurrent and then push down on the servant, the jade will and so pull isolated. Set bumper assembly aside.
There will be three 10 mm bolts on either side of the radiator support by the fender, remove all of these. Remove the plastic fasteners holding the plastic publicize shields to the header panel. The header panel volition now amount sassy, full-clad with lights attached. Past the drivers root pilot you will see the headlight harness plug, slide the red tab over then squeeze the plastic clip, IT will then pull apart. Set complete header panels aside.
In step 3 you removed 4 of the bolts that hold the upper radiator support in lieu, bump off the penultimate two 10mm bolts located connected the bumper affirm in the center just in front of the blower. Pull the radiator suffer unsatisfactory paying attention to the washer nursing bottle cap slippy off of the fill neck. Let the radiator support dangle out of the way consume by the drivers face tire.
Here you can see the two bolts holding the tense cooling fan to the intercooler on the drivers side. Remove them. Remove the two superior bolts also circled.
Here you rear see the single bolt connected the passenger side, remove it and the slide the fan upward. Disconnect the electric plug, slide the red tabloid over and squeeze the retainer, pull apart. Set the fan apart. Remove the two upper bolts also circled.
6. Remove all bolts keeping the AC condenser to the intercooler
If you have not removed all of the circled bolts in the step above do so now. Remove the upper sports fan cerement bolts, 1 10mm on each side.
Thither are two bolts that hold the United States Intelligence Community to the radiator on the top, here you can see one of them along the left of the image. There is other on the drivers position in the analogous location, remove them.
7. Remove winnow shroud:
Pull the ac condenser dormie and then forward-moving, and so pull the radiator forward, if you have non done so heretofore remove the upper radiator hose. With the radiator/IC/capacitance pulled forward carefully pull the sports fan shroud out. It's tight but it can be done. 
The intercooler bequeath slide upward and then come up. It will take some work to clear both the radiator and condenser, I often end up rotating the AC electrical condenser comeback clockwise pivoting at about the recess until information technology is well-nigh top downwardly, and then pulling the inlet tube forbidden, you can figure out what works for you. Exist careful that the metal square nuts don't pass off of the intercooler or radiator while removing. 
9. Remove radiator
Put a bucket subordinate the enfeeble cock and then open it, go get lunch or a snack while you let information technology drain. Remove lower radiator hose, pull the radiator out.
This is the amusing part, but forthwith with all this stuff out of the fashio its non too hard. To hit it you will need a large cresent wrench, or the correct size ric(I think information technology might glucinium 36mm but don't quote me happening that). Remove a 13mm shelfy socket(6 point preferred) and place in on one of the bolts that holds the fan idler to the block. This photo illustrates where you want to place the socket:
First bring the tension off of the belt out, I use a 15mm wrench to apply leveraging and remove the tension, then with the tension off I slip the belt off of the idler downstairs the alternator, then I pull the belt hit at the alternator, then I can release tension, remove the belt and ready the belt aside.
Timing belt procedure:
1. Remove foremost cover.
2. Set up cam lock pins/crank lock fall/cam locking tool.
3. Add alignment First Baron Marks of Broughton on the crank, injectant pump, and cam gears for safeties sake and to insure the CP3 injectant pump stays timed aright.
4. Untie TB belt pulley tensioner bolt.
5. Use tensioner tool to noncurrent the tension off of the belt.
6. Remove Belt.
7: bound off if non doing water pump
7a. Remove cam gears
Only practise this with cam locking pins installed and gear holder in place. The torsion requisite for the cam gear bolts can break the locking pins!)
7b. Remove rear back.
7c. Slay mucilaginous heater.
7d. Remove weewe pump nominal head half.
7e. Install water pump front incomplete.
7f. Install viscous bulle.
7g. Install rise up cover.
7h. Install cam gears
Only practice this with the cam locking pins installed and gear holder in place. The torsion required for the Cam River gear wheel bolts can break the lockup pins!
8. Install new bang.
9. Tension belt and mesh tensioner.
1. Move out social movement cover.
17x7mm hold the presence brood on. Remove them and and then the overlay will just pull off. Suspend.
2. Install Cam lock pins/crank lock pin/Cam River locking tool.
NOTE: If you are not doing the water pump the cam gear bearer tool around is sufficient to hold the gears in place, and the cam pins are genuinely non needed therein case.
The cam lock pins are labeled with an "I" and an "E" for intake and exhaust respectively. They install at 90° aTDC, but they tin also install at 270° aTDC. To instal the intake stick you will pauperism to remove the alternator. To set up the exhaust lockup pin it is helpful to remove the 10mm bolt holding a water hose in place to hit clearance. The plugs that need to be removed to install the lockup pins are a 6mm hex. The crank locking pin installs into a small hole on the block above the oil filter. Generally the hole is dusty and unskilled so the factory creature does not ilk to thread in. I recommend just exploitation a likewise sized drill bit along the block/flywheel hole. Start by removing the punch for the consumption, use something care a smaller screw driver to look for the cam locking immobilise hole patc you number the crank, when you feel the hole stress installing the locking pin, bout the crank back and forth until the locking tholepin installs easily. Then check and see with the drilling bit if it can exist inserted into the flywheel, if IT bottoms out very shortly you are probably 180* degrees off(IE you are at 270° aTDC and necessitate to follow at 90° aTDC), remove the immobilise, turn 180 degrees and repeat. Once you get the flywheel pin/exercise morsel through and through install the other locking pins fully and put the gear locking tool in situatio.
This is the Intake cam locking tool: (Miller 1052)
This is the Tucker cam lockup tool around: (Glenn Miller 1052)
This is the crank locking tool: (Miller 1089)
This is the cam gear locking tool: (Miller 1085)
In the center of this image is where the 6mm plug is that needs to be far to install the intake lockup pin:
This is where the exhaust cam lockup pin tool needs to be installed:
Here you stern go through the consumption joyride installed(and the rear cover off, only don't deplumate that natural covering yet!)
This is where the flywheel locking pin joyride should be installed: 
3. MBD alliance First Baron Marks of Broughton
You should add alliance Simon Marks happening the crank block, cam pulleys, and injection ticker. No demand to mark the water pump, IT isn't timed at wholly.
River Cam gear alignment marks:
Shot pump, and crank alignment Marks:
I generally set up respective marks along the crank, including the teeth, as safeties.
4. Loosen TB belt pulley tensioner bang.
With everything marked, with the locking pins in place, and the Cam gear tool in place, loosen the 10mm bolt on the timing belt out tensioner, then use the tensioner tool to back the stress hit the belt. If you were not at 90° aTDC so the trash might turn a emotional, don't worry, this is wherefore you marked it. Just make a point your marks come up when you get the belt happening. After laxation the tensioner, slide the belt off, remove the tensioner.
Tensioner:
This is the joyride for adjusting the TB tensioner: (miller 9660)
7a. Withdraw cam gears
With all the pins in situ and the cam gear locking tool in situ(make sure the knobs are screwed in tight) remove the bolts that hold the Cam River gears on, 17mm. With the bolts removed the cam gears will just rip off. Set aside.
Only do this with Cam locking pins installed and appurtenance bearer in grade. The torsion required for the Cam pitch bolts can break the lockup pins!)
7b. Remove rear cover.
Removing the timing belt idlers, the timing smash idlers ingest override threads! Turn them clockwise to loosen. The rear cover has 6 small bolts and 3 larger ones noted in these two pictures(one is located behind the cover and also holds down a urine pipe).
7c. Remove viscous smoke.
Two bolts, a couple of heater hoses, and an galvanising plug. No photo up to now.
7d. Remove water pump strawma half.
5 bolts, be careful that there are different duration bolts, only its obvious where they goto and come from.
Water pump front end half removed(not old o-ring soundless in place, remove and and so speckless surface):
Go ahead and take out the new front half. Make believe sure the oring is properly seated in the groove on the new front half. Construct predestined the rusty water pump oring is removed from the rear half.
New top, old bottom:
7e. Install weewe pump front half.
Parvenu heart with oring installed(make convinced the new Oring is properly seated, and and then lightly lube information technology with grease, make careful the old seating aboveground is clean) 
New front on old rear:
(Much much less work this way than trying to use the new rear)
7f. Install thick heater.
7g. Set up rear cover.
7h. Install cam gears
Only do this with the cam locking pins installed and gear holder in place. The torque required for the cam gear bolts can break the lockup pins!
8. Install new belt.
Reinstall idlers, reinstall belt tensioner(simply don't reduce it yet.) For the Belt generally I start at the River Cam gears, and and then work my way around fallen past the Information science and then down to the crank. Make confident that there is non whatever slack between the two Cam River gears, if you can motion the belt up and down any it means you have an extra tooth between the two gears. Set up the belt so there is no slack betwixt the gears. It is ofttimes best to start at the top and slide the belt onto the gears keeping IT tight, don't test and get information technology over one gear wheel first and then the second gear next. Slideway it over some at the same time. After this is finished and to keep the smash from pop disconnected I generally use something as a wedge to keep the belt from pop dispatch of the cam gears. Screwdrivers are fine, just don't shove in a huge single and damage the belt. The honker from an RTV tube worked very nicely, I'm sure you have something some you derriere use.
The Belt should be fine corresponding this betwixt the gears, if at that place is whatever play IT has an extra tooth between the gears:
Nowadays quite often you will get into a case where you make something that looks like this:
What happens is that you do not have sufficient slack to slide o'er the tensioner, and you take overmuch slack between the crank and the injectant pump, yet you cannot get the knock to catch a tooth further terminated than information technology has on the crank. What you want to do is change by reversal the crank up CCW, and then acquire the belt to catch onto a tooth on the crank, then hold the belt onto the crank, and turn IT endorse CW. If you do it right you will have a drunk belt between the injection pump and the crank, and then barely decent slack to get the belt over the tensioner, make sure your crank timing marks nonetheless batting order. if you are off by a tooth it will be patent, repeat the procedure until you have no loose between the IP and the crank, and your crank is correctly aligned.
Jibe out this TV along youtube to see what I stand for:
VIDEO LINK Hera
9. Tenseness belt and lock tensioner.
Use the tensioner creature to tension the belt where the tensioner mark aligns, then screw in the 10mm make off tight. Big check that every the timing marks lineup, remove all locking pins, cam gear holder, and so turn it over by script. Verify that whol the marks still batting order after few rotations. If they do, do a test startup. If everything sounds good put it back together.
This is the serpentine whack routing in case you'rhenium like me and forgot the instant you took information technology remove:
Lets take a look at a utilized Timing Belt with 111k on it:
Surface get into:
Undersurface looks better, but still is covered by the fine bloody dust that comes forth the knock American Samoa is bends and flexes. 
This is the new belt in comparison to the old, much less wear and it looks much better.
Pressure testing the intercooler:
With indefinite hand ended the outlet and my mouth firmly paved to the inlet(No Jokes Please) I blew hard and could feel and hear some leakage, subsequently making sure my mouth and hand seals where salutary I uses the old liquid ecstasy soapsuds trick to find a location that was leaking.
Thus we got a little JB weld, intermingled it upwards, and made it flow into the area under consideration(the top just about tube on the inlet/hot side of the intercooler).
Problem solved! Zero many leaks from that location. During bout down there was a good buildup of oil on the IC near the leak, most likely oil from the intake pathway being snuff out the small leakage(right wing by the inlet) and covering the IC with a lousy oil buildup. If you see the same thing happening and then you may be having a small-scale IC outflow like I was.
Do non loose these:
Thither are a bunch of these set all in the radiator and the IC. They are small threaded inserts that simply slide in to a plastic holder on the radiator or IC and Army of the Pure other things comparable the fan hide and AC condenser bolt to them. I lost several and had to find some nuts that would work. I didn't even realize these could come out until I went to reassemble everything and plant out I was missing them!
Example of one not missing:
And one thats missing:
This was something I noted upon reinstall of every, the AC line had been hitting the upper radiator support, I knack the lip of the radiator support a little and also bent the line weak a bit, wads of clearance now!
This is the turbo recess hosepipe. When I was putting everything back together I found kayoed that the lower contribution where it clamps to the turbo inlet had degraded and ripped apart. I suspect it had been this way a while and sole now I had ascertained it. It appears that this will be a 100% failure item on most CRDs, mine has been running the EHM and ORM for the past 60-70k miles(since about 40k-50k on the odometer) and I still had this failure. The buy in CCV system of rules will increase this failure rate, until no other reason to run the EHM and ORM.
The Part number for the new part is 53013104AE - Hosiery, Clean Air:
Crd Jeep Liberty Fan Pulley Came Off Bracket
Source: http://colorado4wheel.com/content/KJ_TB.html
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